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24 . 11 . 2009

Shop talk with Montreal fashion designer Anastasia Lomonova

Photo by Natalia Lewandowska

First up in a series of interviews with Montreal fashion designers is Ukrainian-born Anastasia Lomonova, who has been designing clothing since the age of 18. She talks to The S.W.A.P. Team about some of the challenges local designers are facing, and how conscious consumption is key to their survival.

The S.W.A.P. Team: Hi Anastasia, thanks for chatting with us today. How long have you been in business?

Anastasia Lomonova: I started my line in 2007. I went to school at Ryerson and then I came to Montreal. I’ve just finished my 7th season and am starting on my 8th.

The S.W.A.P. Team: How many styles do you produce per season and where are they made?

Anastasia Lomonova: I design about 20-22 styles, but I produce about 15 per collection. I keep my production here and pay my seamstress a fair wage. I get my fabrics here.

The S.W.A.P. Team: How has the recession affected your business?

Anastasia Lomonova: I’ve raised my prices and changed my product — it’s a little more high-end now and uses more natural fibers (e.g., bamboo, silk, etc.). This is a direction that I’ve personally wanted to take because it’s getting hard to compete with stores like H&M and Zara. This is the first season that I’ve done this.

The S.W.A.P. Team: Why is it so hard to compete with stores like H&M and Zara?

Anastasia Lomonova: They can afford to charge significantly less for a similar style of garment as mine, because they’re all mass-produced. Their clothes are cheaply made, so the quality is not that good. You might even see silk at a higher price, but the fits are not always impeccable and there are no values standing behind that. We complain about how the economy is so bad and that no one has jobs, but it’s our own fault: the reason why no one has jobs here is that we’re expected to buy products that are made somewhere else.

The S.W.A.P. Team: It seems that people who are getting their information online are moving over to labels that are made in smaller batches of production, offer higher quality and aren’t necessarily made in China or abroad. So why do you think that so many consumers are still turning to retailers like H&M and Zara to clothe them when there are clearly better options out there for the price?

Anastasia Lomonova: When it comes down to it, people don’t have a lot of money but they still want fashion. So, you know, it’s a lot easier to forgive yourself for indulging in a $30 t-shirt than a $150 dress.

The S.W.A.P. Team: Do you think that those consumers who have that mindset think about whether or not the garment that they buy — the “no guilt” garment that they buy — will actually be wearable in one year?

Anastasia Lomonova: No, that’s it. Those people are not my customer at all. The people that buy my clothes and the people who shop from other independent designers  — they’re a more educated consumer. They look for something of not only real physical value, like good quality, good fabric and so on, but also solid emotional value. They know that if they buy a piece from me they can feel good about it. It will fit them, they can wear it over a good period of time and it won’t disintegrate. It’s about a different kind of consumer. Unfortunately, right now that group of consumers is quite significantly smaller than the majority of people. Because you know, when it comes down to the basics, there’s still a whole nation that shops at WalMart, whereas most of us have stopped doing that. Optimistically speaking, I think that is something that’s beginning to change as the consumer begins to get more educated on values such as the ones that you (The S.W.A.P. Team) stand behind.

The S.W.A.P. Team: Do you think that if consumers knew that they could buy from local designers and find a better product — more expensive but longer lasting — that they would choose to support the locals?

Anastasia Lomonova: Of course, definitely. If it was presented to them in a way such as: it’s made here, it’s supporting the local economy, it’s well made, it’s going to fit you better … there’s endless benefits. It’s going to be unique, people will ask you where you bought it and so on.

The S.W.A.P. Team: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Anastasia Lomonova: Women who are very interested in fashion, who like to dress up to go to work, who want to feel special and who want to treat themselves to that special feeling every day. Someone who is successful, sociable, who likes to be seen … someone who has an interesting, dynamic life.

The S.W.A.P. Team: What’s the minimum investment in terms of putting together a great look from your line?

Anastasia Lomonova: If you have about $150-$250 (CAD), you could be pretty well dressed.

The S.W.A.P. Team: What is the most popular item from this season (fall/winter) so far?

Anastasia Lomonova:

photo by Anastasia Lomonova

The Jackie Dress (shown at left) — it’s my take on a shirtdress.

The S.W.A.P. Team: Where can Montrealers find your clothes?

Anastasia Lomonova: At General 54 (54 St-Viateur)

The S.W.A.P. Team: One last question – what’s in store for your spring collection?

Anastasia Lomonova: It’s a very light collection in terms of color. I used a lot of vanilla tones. It’s a very luxurious-looking collection. Japanese type-prints, some hand-dying on silk, and some gold accents. This collection is tailored to make the woman shine. It’s inspired by warmth, luxury and the beach.

Anastasia Lomonova can be found in boutiques across Canada. If you missed her beautiful clothing at our Montreal swap in September, you can visit her web site at www.anastasialomonova.com. Anastasia Lomonova will also be part of Montreal’s Smart Design Mart on November 28 and 29.